Near Samaipata in Bolivia, at an altitude of 1920m, just where large trees no longer grow, there is a huge rock. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998. It’s considered to be the largest carved rock in the world, the product of four cultures mixing over the centuries: Fort Samaipata.
Getting to the site
A steep road climbs up the hillside. In some places there are stones in the middle of the road that must have fallen during the last rain. You cross a river and arrive at the visitor centre. Basically it’s a car park, a toilet and a hut where you buy your ticket. There are a few unfinished buildings in stark contrast to what previous generations managed to build.
On the edge of the Andes
The visit to the archaeological site begins with a climb to the summit, from where you can enjoy panoramic views of the high peaks of the Andes and the lowlands of Santa Cruz. This sub-Andean region lies at the foot of the Andean mountain range, which reaches its highest point in Bolivia at the Nevado Sajama volcano (6542m).
Cultures at Fort Samaipata
Unlike the Amazon, the Andean highlands have long been known for their complex civilizations. Fort Samaipata is a clear example of this.
From above you can see the carved rock in all its glory. The Chané, who came from the Guianas, carved the first petroglyphs between the 10th and the 15th century. They turned the rock into an astronomical and ceremonial centre dedicated to the deity of the moon, for which they reflected the sky in the water that stagnated in the rock engravings.
The Incas arrived in the 15th century, allied with the Chané and added their zoomorphic figures, such as felines and snakes, to the rock. They also carved niches for priests and probably for burying mummies. The Incas extended the enclosure by building on the southern slope.
During the tour you pass Inca houses and you see the traces of the Chiriguano (from the lowlands), who defeated the Incas, and the Andalusian-style houses left by the Spanish from the 16th century onwards.
Places to reflect
Visiting an archaeological site such as Fort Samaipata is a thought-provoking experience. I get goosebumps thinking about the people who have walked through this very place, imagining their stories and the secrets that the rock holds. It’s also a real privilege to see how different life was in the past. These places give us the opportunity to learn about other ethnicities, cultures and ideas, and, perhaps to understand ourselves a little better.