A 1400 km journey across South America in search of a spare part
Today we take you on a journey through three countries in search of a car battery, comparing South American and European distances.
Kilometre 0: Samaipata, Bolivia
In Samaipata, a beautiful place at the foot of the Andes, our adventure is cut short by a moody battery. The Land Cruiser won’t start until we grab the jump starter and arm ourselves with some patience.
We still have hope that they will recharge, and we drive along the Ruta del Che up to 3000 meters above sea level. We slept at altitude and in the morning we started the car on a hill. The battery still showed signs of weakness and we decided to go to Sucre, the capital of Bolivia, convinced that we would surely find a solution there.
Kilometre 360: Sucre, Bolivia
After two days and 20 specialised battery shops, one thing is clear: the batteries we are looking for don’t exist here.
We are looking for AGM batteries, that is, valve-regulated lead-acid batteries. They are used to provide a lot of energy in a short time, for example when starting a car. They also have a high shock resistance. Exactly what we need to keep travelling on remote routes.
You can find everything in Bolivia, but mostly old-fashioned technology. Of course you can buy European batteries in La Paz or Santa Cruz, but at exorbitant prices. They asked for US$ 1000 for two batteries, not including shipping to Sucre and with no guarantee that they would arrive.
The batteries found in Sucre are mostly flooded batteries, which are hardly used in Europe any more. They’re very common because they’re cheap, but they require constant maintenance, including checking and refilling the electrolyte levels with distilled water. They are also considerably larger than ours. However, they are advertised with the slogan “German technology”, although who knows when that technology dates from.
Kilometre 857: Villazón, Bolivia-Argentina border
Still hopeful, we set off for Argentina. We consult Toyota workshops, but luck isn’t on our side. The batteries available don’t meet our needs or our budget. The quotes were around US$ 600-700.
An unexpected turn
At the border, another traveller mentions Chile as the promised land of AGM batteries. Thanks to Chilean friends, we buy the batteries online while waiting in line at the Bolivia-Argentina border. They’re not the perfect, but at least they’re AGM, 100Ah and cost ‘only’ US$ 300, shipping included.
Kilometre 1473: San Pedro de Atacama, Chile
We drive 12 hours on curvy roads at over 4000 metres above sea level with reduced power. The best thing is that we managed to cross two borders without stopping the engine. We only turn the Land Cruiser off at night to sleep, and in the morning some friends help us start it: rolling, pushing or pulling the car.
The excitement of having the batteries turns to discouragement when we discover that they don’t fit in the bonnet and a mechanic throws a bucket of cold water on us by assuring that they won’t work to start the car. Nevertheless, with his ingenuity and limited tools, Michi improvised some new handles and connectors. All in all, more than 10 hours of work.
Happy ending
1400 kilometres later, with the batteries installed, we celebrate our special odyssey. It has been a journey in which we have covered a distance comparable to driving from Geneva in Switzerland to Madrid in Spain. But above all, it has taught us the importance of patience, improvisation and the kindness of travellers who share the road with us.