At an altitude of 3800 metres, where temperatures plummet at night, the sun beats down during the day and the wind dries skin and grass, lies Lake Titicaca. In this harsh environment, people have found an unusual home: the Uros, who live on floating islands in the Bay of Puno.
The lake, a safe space
The Uros date back to pre-Inca times and are considered one of the oldest ethnic groups in the Americas. It’s believed that some of them sought refuge in the lake after the arrival of other groups, while others integrated. Although eventually they all lost their original language, Uro-Chipaya; most now speak Aymara at home and learn Spanish at school.
Like walking on clouds
The floating islands do really float. Walking on them is a peculiar experience, as they sink several centimetres with each step and you have to be careful not to step on unstable (and wet) areas.
The key lies in the totora, an aquatic plant that grows in the lake. Its roots form a floating base that the Uros use to build their islands. They cut the totora base to the desired size, join it together and let it rest so that the different pieces can come together again to form a surface. Then, the island is moved to the chosen spot and cut totora is placed on top, creating a layer up to 1.5 metres thick on the base, resulting in a floating platform up to 3 metres high.
Getting rid of uncooperative neighbours
Every 15 days new totora must be added or the island will rot and could disappear. This work is so important that if one family refuses to participate, the other families on the island can cut off the area of the recalcitrant family and get rid of them.
Totora is also used to make houses, beds and even boats, although some are already made of wood and metal for greater durability and lower maintenance.
Tourists and locals
The Uro people of Puno Bay live mainly from tourism and, to a lesser extent, from fishing. Between 300 and 400 people visit the islands every day. In our case, we went early and there weren’t many people yet, but we saw the big tourist boats. Tourism has improved their economic situation. In the past they depended on fishing and hunting birds, which they traded for other products. Apparently some of the more remote islands still retain this way of life.
According to our guide, there are 120 floating islands inhabited by several families, with a total population of up to 2,500 people. However, the 2017 Peruvian census counted 681 people who identify as Uros and speak of around 80 floating islands, which is more in line with our observations. In addition, many no longer live permanently on the islands.
Despite the influx of tourism and uncertainty about the veracity of the information provided, the floating islands of the Uros are an impressive place that once again showed us a very different way of life.